Small help required

[pompeyron]

Hi, am coming to Calabria in May for first time since early 80s and want to take a look at Scalea. The flights are arranged but for future reference is it better to fly to naples or lamezia?

[hallphoto]

Personally we like Lamezia, car hire is a walk across car park, (Naples is a shuttle bus), much less hustle and bustle, you can get away from the airport quickly, drive to Scalea can take 1 hour 15 mins or 2 hours depending on time of day, but the coast road is easy to drive and has great scenery.
Naples journey is around 3 hours motorway is ok but there are roadworks down to 1 lane for around 20 ks while they are upgrading the road.
Lamezia has a great shopping centre called "Due Mare" around 5 kms down the road with a great Carrefour and many other shops DIY store and furniture

Kevin & Jayne

[ENGJMAX]

Hi Pompeyron

I think it depends on if you are going to hire a car or not??

If you are going to hire a car then I 100% agree with Kevin & Jane

If not then it has to be Naples & a direct train down to Scalea having booked your ticket online ( bus from outside airport & 20mins to station)

Of course this is my South of England 15mins Heathrow, 45 mins Luton & Gatwick, 75mins Stanstead view, for others around the Uk & Eire its not quite so simple

Hope you enjoy your trip


Best Wishes


John

[pompeyron]

Thanks Kevin Jayne and John. Appreciate the advice, I just wish flights were more flexible and from other London airports. Based in Teddington my travel times to the airports seems very similar to yours John. Anyway, we are flying to Rome and working our way down so I think a train will be better as I don't fancy driving all that way.

Probably be in Scalea around 28th of May and if things work as we wish then in future Lamezia sounds the best option. If anyone would like to recommend any hotels, bars, restaurants in Scalea then I'm all ears too (have seen some on this forum already but no harm to get updates).

Cheers

[Lynn]

Where do you intend to stay?

[Dermot Brophy]

Hello, there, Pompeyron.

The "Pompey" - or is it "Pompei" - reference has me fascinated!

However, for what it's worth, here are some reflections on restaurants.

We have had good meals at various levels of sophistication in :-

Il Corsaro - on the sea front - (pretty inexpensive)

Antica Osteria - Edge of the Centro Storico, visible from the big car-park at the north end of town- (Very pleasant out-door area in fine weather)

Genoa (have I got that name right, Leslie?) - a modern-looking white hotel/restaurant right beside the same car-park (lovely shaded out-door area, particularly good pizzas)

Tari - a bit up into the Centro Storico - (not too cheap, by Scalea standards, but can have intersting dishes)

Also in the Centro Storico, there is a little place which has no menu - you get what's on offer, and that's it! We found the starters magnificent, but it rather deteriorated as the courses came and went. It's an interesting kind of gastronomic mystery-train - can be fun. The name escapes me - I'm sure someone else will come to our aid here.

Il Casale - in the Centro Storico of San Nicola Arcella, just 5k north of Scalea, up the SS18, (beautiful garden restaurant, friendly staff, we have had both excellent and rather poor meals there - worth a try)

Furano - well sign-posted out of San Nicola by a cork-screw road along the coast - about 5 minutes drive from the village. (Absolutely excellent fish dishes - Fulvio and his crew have never let us down!)

San Giorgio's - a hotel/restaurant on the left of the SS18, just before you get to the exit for San Nicola (Inexpensive, informal, TV on all the time, food is consistent - quite acceptable standard, though not Haute Cuisine!)

That's just a snatch of our experiences over a few weeks in Oct/Nov. No doubt there are others on this forum who can expand with greater authority than I, and who know other places.

Can't be much help on the bars, I'm afraid.

If you arrive by train, the Hotel Continental is right beside the station - very handy, at least for starters. There is also some provision for car-parking. This is the only hotel I have actually stayed in - quite adequate, specially in summer. We found it a bit on the cold side in January! Nice, quitely genial lady in charge - not much English spoken Mind you, it might be quite different in season, we were there at very quiet times.

Enjoy Scalea - its a grand, friendly place - and May seems like a great time to be there.

Auguri

Dermot

[Italy4me]

Originally Posted by Dermot Brophy

Genoa (have I got that name right, Leslie?) - a modern-looking white hotel/restaurant right beside the same car-park (lovely shaded out-door area, particularly good pizzas)

It's Genova and is also a hotel but I have no experience of it.

Originally Posted by Dermot Brophy

Also in the Centro Storico, there is a little place which has no menu - you get what's on offer, and that's it! We found the starters magnificent, but it rather deteriorated as the courses came and went. It's an interesting kind of gastronomic mystery-train - can be fun. The name escapes me - I'm sure someone else will come to our aid here.

Sounds like this could be either La Rondinella (near the bottom), A Taverna (near the top) or Pizzicandu (near the top).

Lesley

[fifi]

Ah Dermot you are making me hungry.Its A Taverna I would say a mystery food tour just yum.The hotel outside Scalea I think its the forest hotel.we never really order steak away but what a mean steak they serve and the rest of the dishes are just the same fab.The 20€ dish is just amazing, and course after course with the surrounds are beautiful.We went to this place a few times last year it was great for the children a small plaground ,music and a dance area.Now the icing on the cake would be a little more choice in flights from Dublin, just cant understand why Ryanair dont fly to Napoli, they nearly fly everywhere else in Italy from Ireland, and Aerlingus are so bloody dear now.I have tried to send Ryanair emails, but no joy.Will just have to keep hoping they will sometime soon .xxFif

[Doug]

Okay Dermot and Fifi-
Now you have me curious about steak! Which restaurant might serve a "mean steak" around there? Are they up to 2-4 cm thick and not cooked to death ala calabrese? Afraid I've only experienced a thin, boring bifstecca everywhere I have been.

[pompeyron]

Thanks for replies, didn't expect so much info so thats quality.

Lynn if your question was for me then I have no idea yet. Just want a non bank breaking hotel in central Scalea for 2-3 nights. I asked about restaurants and bars because we like to visit both venue types. Don't tell me there's not an irish pub?? We went to dusseldorf last year and found 6. Not saying I wanted one there but they do seem to pop up everywhere and are good for football coverage (and a sing song).

Thanks for the extensive list Dermot, we'll give some a try no doubt. By the way the pompey is an old nickname from my days of living in Portsmouth. Sorry the reason was not more exciting!

From what I can gather most people have a place in Scalea used for occasional visits rather than to live. Would that be accurate? Its what I'm looking for to be honest.

Cheers

[Niamh]

Fifi - couldn't agree more about Ryanair Dublin to Naples - wouldn't it be just great.
Or better still to Lamezia (dream on) in that case I guess.
Will get a good slap from you Doug talking like that considering the distance yourself and Di have to come.
Pompeyron - Hotel Talao is very handy, won't break the bank and has beautiful views over the sea. Anytime of year is lovely !

Ciao all
Niamh

[bella_ciao]

Hi Pompeyron,
I cannot speak as one who has been through the buying process in this area but I do know that many have done so, some with the intention of living in this part of Italy permanently, or who wish to retire there, and some who have simply bought an apartment or house because they have fallen in love with the area and want to go back and visit it regularly for holidays.
However, we do have relatives in Calabria (not too far from Scalea) and have been back there regularly for the past three years, so I can only offer my observations from that point of view.
One of this area's biggest appeals is that it is, as yet, relatively unspoilt by commercialism and tourism, so those of us who tend to travel there on a regular basis would like to see it kept that way, as it really does seem to represent the "real" Italy. Also, an understanding of the local culture is important as it is very important to the people who live there and it is more of a "taverna" and "ristorante" culture, rather than the pub culture we have over here. Although there is plenty of good wine, which is usually imbibed at mealtimes, generally speaking, alchoholism is frowned upon, so you don't get the problems we have over here with that - at least, not nearly to the same extent. So you can expect an abundance of good food and good wine, acompanied by congenial company but without many of the serious problems related to overindulgence in alchohol that we experience over here (sorry, I can't speak for the beer as I have never tasted it - only in certain cooked dishes!) Maybe it's a different story when the area gets very busy with visitors but I have not personally witnessed anything very problematic although I'm sure things can get quite lively during the football season! However, this is an area that has kept it's cultural identity and has a great deal to offer in the way of historic interest and natural beauty. It is particulary rewarding and relaxing to explore during off-peak times, in my opinion, as July and August tend to get very busy, as it is a favourite area for Northern Italians and visitors from other places in Europe during these months. It's also a little cooler during the off-peak months, which suits me!
My feeling is that this area will continue to retain it's individuality, which is what separates it from so many other holiday destinations - I hope so, anyway. Remember, too, that as yet very few local Italians speak fluent English, so you have to be prepared to do a bit of work with the phrase book and dictionary (unless you're a fluent speaker yourself, of course) - it's all good fun, though, and you can usually find someone to help out if you really get stuck.
Well, having waxed lyrical over what we view as a very special part of Italy, maybe some other forum posters who have bought in the area would like to add their views - and they are usually a very honest bunch - to give you a more complete overview of what's available around Scalea. There have been many other posts on this forum under various headings which I'm sure you will find very helpful, and there are those who are much more "in the know" than I.
Incidentally, you will find that there have been some considerable improvements since you were last in the area, both with the infrastructure and also in the way that towns and buildings seem to have been give a real 'facelift'.
Have a great visit!
Ciao,
Frances.

[pompeyron]

Thanks Frances. Due to your very informative and frank message I want to stress a couple of things. Firstly I am very much aware of this region's position as a real almost "untouched" Italy. Secondly I am half italian so can get by with the language (no where near fluent though) in non English environments. My relatives are based in Rome, Naples and up north near Rovigo but when I was younger I remember visiting Calabria and loved it. My father told me how different it is to the north and instantly I was appealed to it. I love a good drink and game of football but have always respected local laws and customs.

We visited a very small place in northern Sardinia recently and love the small cosy bars that serve a nice cold lager for me and a coffee for her (ha ha), and I dare say the ones in Scalea are the same or similar.

I heard someone once say "If you spot a bandwagon, you are too late". I agree with that sentiment and its always been my aim to find somewhere like Scalea. However our visit in May is purely to look so maybe nothing will come of it, but it does sound lovely.

Niamh, thanks for the hotel tip, we'll have a look at that.

Cheers

[Lynn]

Hi Pompeyron, as mentioned earlier in this thread, the Hotel Continental is a good bet and very reasonable. I have heard the food is good but haven't eaten there except for breakfast. It is very friendly oo. Try Agenzia Casabella if you are interested in viewing property. Ivan is very helpful. We bought through him and he even organised our bank account and Codice Fiscale. We should be there in June for a couple of weeks and look forward to it immensely. as far as pubs go I'm afraid we have never visited any. We use a little bar opposite the sports stadium along from the Spar. It is called Bar Pier and we like it because there is an outside area and it isn't touristy. The owner, Bartolomeo, is very friendly and the coffee and hot chocolate is very good. we normally go in the morning and before supper so I don't know what it's like later on. Up by Hotel Continental towards the station there is Bar Daniele but have only been there twice. Their cakes look gorgeous.

Lynn

[bella_ciao]

Hi again,
Mmmmmm!............Hot chocolate! Mmmmmm!..............Cakes! Sounds wonderful! While we're being honest, perhaps I should admit to these as being among the items at the top of my list of penchants of all things Italian!

Thank you, pompeyron, for your kind and detailed response to my post and you are clearly more qualified than I to comment on these areas. Thank you also for understanding the motivation behind my comments, which I'm sure is also appreciated by others who visit this forum. My husband is half Calabrese and I have French-Italian roots and our many visits to Italy, including the north and Naples area, have only confirmed that those connections are real and deep-seated. Italy really does feel like our second home (we were both born and raised in England).
Sardinia sounds wonderful, going by everything I have heard about the place, and I really want to visit there in the future. So far, we've missed visiting Sicily by the skin of our teeth but it is also high on the list as we've heard it described as Italy in "condensed" form - really very beautiful. Visiting Calabria for me has been a real learning curve and we both really appreciate the area and the warmth of the people - not to mention the beautiful weather and wonderful food!
I don't think you will be disappointed by what you see in Scalea and the surrounding area - there is much to see and don't forget to look up Tony Hackett at Calabria Property Consultants - he has helped a lot of people with their property purchases, along with other services, and here is the link to the website:

Calabria Property Consultants - About Us

All the best with your search and enjoy your stay!

Best regards,

Frances.

[fifi]

Well Doug yes a mean stake, about 4cm thick and it covered the very large plate.A good old fashion Tbone.Couldnt believe my eyes and it tasted great.The other dishes were very good aswell.The hotel is about 10 mins outside Scalea past the spar supermarket.Its a small complex with swimming pool and horse riding.Worth a visitxx Fifi

[Doug]

Hey Fifi,
Thanks for the tips. Being a guy, I need to know a few more specifics as a hotel "south of Scalea by 10 minutes" could mean a lot of things! If they have horses and things it could be an agriturisimo operation? This could be as far as Grisolia if you traveled on SS18, but closer if on the back roads that parallel the SS18.

Perhaps we should converse on the side. Our email is 14viacapella@gmail.com if you have time to chat more about this interesting eatery.
doug

[billy]

Hi Doug,
I think Fifi means Villa Brazzano which is on the outskirts of Scalea and is excellent. It is well signposted from the centre of Scalea and takes about 5 minutes by car from Scalea centre and is well worth a visit---The owner's name is Angelo.I haven't had steak there but anything I've had has been molto buono. Another great restaurant is the French restaurant in Scalea--Il Parigino.It does a set price menu at lunchtime which is very good value and the evening menu includes steak cooked any way you like. Stefano the owner's son[ e cameriere ] speaks several languages one of which is English and he and his dad are very pleasant.
Another good eatery is the Serpente Rosso on the Scalea side of San Nicola on the main road. It is always busy and serves up authentic Calabrian meals including many good fish dishes--I especially enjoy Sunday lunch there among many of the local families.The owner's wife, Norma ,speaks a little English.
Regards, Billy.

[jessie]

Hi all,
on the subject of food, in case any of you are interested there is a lovely little pastry shop up by the tobacconists shop on the corner of the street near the chemist in the centro storico. Go left past the tobacconist and on the same side you will find it. It is called Marie Lou's and sells the most gorgeous pastries and cakes (also you can sit inside or out and have coffee/tea as well) Were taken here by our lovely neighbours Franco and Gelsomina. It is a little hidden gem.

Jessie

[billy]

Hello Jessie,
We bought the Cedro cake from there and we were back 2 days later for more. Their torti sono meraviglioso.
Guglielmo. [ Italian for Billy ]